What is oud (agarwood) and why is it the most precious perfume raw material

Oud (Arabic oud, also known as agarwood or aloeswood) is a raw material surrounded by legends. A kilo of high-quality wood can cost as much as a small flat, and a few drops of pure oil more than the same weight in gold. In this article you will find out how oud forms, why it is so rare, exactly how it smells, what the difference is between natural oud and an "oud accord", and which perfumes to choose if you are taking your first step into this world – or are already looking for something bolder.

What oud is: wood, fungus and resin

Oud forms in trees of the genus Aquilaria (and to a lesser extent Gyrinops), which grow in South-East Asia – from Assam in India through Myanmar, Thailand, Laos and Cambodia to Malaysia, Indonesia and Hainan Island. The healthy wood itself is pale, soft and almost odourless. The magic begins when it is injured – by a storm, insects or animals – and a fungal infection enters the wound.

In response, the tree begins to produce a dark, thick and highly aromatic resin with which it "seals" the infected area. Over years this resin permeates the fibres and turns them into heavy, almost black wood. This is what is called oud. The longer the process has continued, the denser the resin and the more valuable the raw material. In nature only a small proportion of trees become infected, and it is hard to tell from the outside which one hides resin – oud hunters in the past felled whole forests in vain.

Wood for burning and oil for the skin

Oud is used in two main forms. Pieces of resinous wood are smouldered on charcoal – this is how homes, clothes and hair are scented in the Gulf countries. The related tradition of bakhoor uses wood chips soaked in oils and resins. The oil, known as dehn al oud, is obtained by water and steam distillation. The process is slow and the yield meagre: from many kilos of wood only a few millilitres of oil remain.

Why oud is so expensive

The price of oud is the result of several factors that multiply one another:

• Rarity in nature. Wild Aquilaria populations have declined sharply due to overharvesting. Since 2004 all species of the genus have been listed in Appendix II of CITES, which strictly controls international trade.
• Time. The natural formation of high-quality resin takes decades. Plantations with artificial inoculation shorten the time, but the most valuable oils still come from old trees.
• Low yield. Distillation requires a huge amount of raw material for a minimal quantity of oil.
• Cultural value. In the Arab world oud is a symbol of hospitality and status – demand there is constant and well-funded.

How oud smells and why different types sound different

If we had to describe oud in a few words, they would be: woody, resinous, smoky, slightly leathery and animalic, with a honeyed or fruity sweetness in the best examples. Newcomers sometimes compare it to a "barnyard" or "medicine" – and this is no insult but part of its character. It is precisely these rough, living nuances that give oud its depth.

Origin influences the scent as much as the grape variety influences wine:

Natural oud or oud accord?

Here is a truth rarely said out loud: the vast majority of perfumes labelled "Oud" contain no or almost no natural oud oil. The reasons are practical. Natural oil is extremely expensive, every batch smells different, and its animalic nuances can be too strong for the European nose.

That is why perfumers create oud accords – combinations of woody molecules, resins, leathery notes, sometimes castoreum and a little natural oud for authenticity. The result is more predictable, more stable and easier to wear. This does not mean a "fake" fragrance: the accord is an artistic interpretation, just as a "sea breeze" accord does not contain sea water.

Oud entered Western perfumery on a large scale at the beginning of the 21st century. French niche houses, among them Montale, made it their trademark as early as the early 2000s, and after the success of several designer fragrances oud became one of the most fashionable themes in the industry.

Oud's classic partners

Oud rarely appears alone. Some pairings have been so successful that they have become classics:

Oud and rose

The most famous pair in Arabic perfumery. Rose softens oud's roughness, and oud gives rose weight and mystery. Also see perfumes with rose, where you will find many similar compositions.

Oud and saffron

Saffron brings a leathery, slightly metallic and honeyed-spicy sheen that emphasises oud's luxurious character. This combination features in dozens of oriental fragrances – browse perfumes with saffron.

Oud, amber and vanilla

A sweet, warm base turns oud into a cosy, more accessible fragrance. This is the best entry point for beginners.

Oud and incense

A dry, smoky, almost mystical combination that recalls ancient temples and spice markets.

Oud perfumes: from first try to advanced

In our collection perfumes with oud you will find nearly 300 fragrances. Here is how to find your way.

For a first encounter

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Satin Mood is perhaps the most velvety face of oud – violet, rose, vanilla and benzoin wrap it as if in cashmere. Al Haramain Amber Oud Gold Edition is sweet, fruity-amber and very powerful, with oud more as a background – a good choice if you want impact at an affordable price. You will find the whole line in the collection Al Haramain Amber Oud. Mancera Aoud Blue Notes offers a fresher, more modern interpretation.

For rose lovers

Montale Black Aoud is one of Montale's emblems – saturated rose, oud and patchouli, a powerful trail and staying power that easily carries over to the next day on clothes. Tiziana Terenzi Gold Rose Oudh is richer and more baroque, in the brand's typical Italian style.

For the advanced

If you already know oud, try Xerjoff Alexandria II – a noble woody-rose fragrance with lavender and cinnamon, one of the most respected in the world of niche perfumery (more in the collection Xerjoff Alexandria). From the series Xerjoff Kemi see 'Ilm – a more direct, resinous-woody oud. For a true Arabic spirit, browse Arabic perfumes.

How to wear oud without overdoing it

1. Start small. One or two sprays are quite enough – oud fragrances are among the longest-lasting and most diffusive.
2. Choose the right season. Oud shows its best side in cool weather – autumn, winter and cool evenings. In the heat the animalic nuances can become heavy.
3. Think about the occasion. In an enclosed office choose a softer oud with rose or vanilla; save powerful compositions for evenings and special occasions.
4. Apply to clothes and a scarf. Fabrics hold oud for days – an old Arabic trick that never fails.
5. Give it time. The first minutes of oud are often the hardest. Judge the fragrance after 30–60 minutes, when the heart and base open up.

Frequently asked questions