Few flowers have had as great an influence on the history of perfumery as ylang-ylang. Its yellow flowers, drooping like ribbons, yield an oil that is floral, fruity, creamy and slightly spicy all at once – and that lies at the heart of some of the greatest women's perfumes, including the legendary Chanel N°5. In this guide you will learn what ylang-ylang smells like, what the "Extra", "I", "II" and "III" grades mean, where its banana-custard nuance comes from and which ylang-ylang perfumes to choose.
- Ylang-ylang is a tropical tree (Cananga odorata) whose flowers yield a precious essential oil – mainly from the Comoros and Madagascar.
- The scent is sweet and floral, with nuances of banana, vanilla custard, clove and a slight "medicinal" note.
- The oil is distilled in fractions: Extra is the finest and most floral, III the heaviest and woodiest.
- Ylang-ylang is key to Chanel N°5 and to many sunny, "beachy" fragrances.
- For the purest ylang, try M. Micallef Ylang in Gold and Lorenzo Villoresi Ylang Ylang.
What is ylang-ylang
Ylang-ylang (Cananga odorata) is a fast-growing tropical tree of the Annonaceae family – the same family as the custard apple and cherimoya, fruits that taste of vanilla custard. It is native to Southeast Asia, and today the most precious oil comes from the Comoros, Mayotte and the island of Nosy Be in Madagascar.
The name comes from the Philippines. It is often translated as "the flower of flowers", although philologists link it rather to the Tagalog word for "wilderness". Whatever the truth, the romantic translation perfectly describes ylang-ylang's place in perfumery – it is one of the richest and most many-sided floral oils.
The flowers are picked by hand early in the morning, when they smell strongest. It is important that they are fully ripe – green flowers give a weak scent, while the ripe ones, yellow with a reddish spot at the base, are the most fragrant. In the Comoros, ylang-ylang is among the most important export products, along with vanilla and clove.
Ylang-ylang scent: the nuances described
If you are handed a vial of pure ylang-ylang oil, the scent may surprise you with its density. Here is what it consists of:
- A floral core – sweet, narcotic, close to jasmine and narcissus but creamier.
- A banana and custard nuance – a soft fruity sweetness reminiscent of ripe banana and vanilla custard. That is why ylang-ylang pairs so naturally with coconut and vanilla.
- A spicy thread – a light tint of clove, especially in the heavier fractions.
- A "medicinal" or rubbery note – a raw, slightly pharmaceutical edge noticeable in the undiluted oil. In a perfume it disappears but adds depth.
It is precisely this many-layered quality that makes ylang-ylang so valuable: it can play the role of a flower, a fruit or a custard – depending on what the perfumer pairs it with. It often works in tandem with jasmine and tuberose, which is why ylang-ylang is present in many of the jasmine perfumes in our catalogue.
Extra, I, II, III: the grades of the oil
Ylang-ylang is one of the few oils distilled in fractions. Distillation lasts many hours, and the oil is collected in portions – each with a different character:
| Grade | When it is collected | Character | Use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Extra (and Extra Superior) | The first hours | The most ethereal, floral and sweet | Fine perfumery |
| I (Première) | After Extra | Floral, slightly denser | Perfumes and cosmetics |
| II | The middle of the distillation | Heavier, spicy | Cosmetics, soaps |
| III | The last hours | Woody, heavy, the cheapest | Soaps and household products |
| Complete | The whole distillation | Full, balanced | Aromatherapy |
Luxury perfumery uses Extra almost exclusively – it gives that radiant, creamy-floral effect without the heavy spiciness of the later fractions.
Ylang-ylang and Chanel No. 5 perfume
When Ernest Beaux created Chanel N°5 in 1921, he caused a revolution with aldehydes – synthetic molecules that give a sparkling, "soapy-champagne" effect. But beneath this sparkle lies a rich floral heart in which ylang-ylang plays a leading role together with jasmine and rose. Without ylang's creamy warmth, the aldehydes would sound cold and metallic.
Today, more than a century later, ylang-ylang remains a signature of Chanel's floral fragrances:
Chanel N°5 Eau Première
A lighter and more modern interpretation of N°5, created by Jacques Polge. The aldehydes and ylang-ylang sound more ethereal, neroli and jasmine add radiance, and vanilla, sandalwood and vetiver form a soft base. If the classic N°5 seems too powdery and "strict" to you, N°5 Eau Première is the ideal gateway into the world of the legend.
Chanel Gabrielle
Created by Olivier Polge in 2017, Gabrielle is a "radiant white flower" – an imaginary bouquet of jasmine, ylang-ylang, orange blossom and tuberose. The ylang-ylang here is sunny and fruity, while the grapefruit and blackcurrant in the opening give it freshness. You will find more of the brand's fragrances in the collection Chanel women's perfumes.
The best ylang-ylang perfumes
If you want ylang-ylang to be the main character rather than part of the bouquet, take a look at these fragrances:
M. Micallef Ylang in Gold Edition Spéciale
The name says it all. Geranium and citrus open the composition, ylang-ylang glows in the heart, and sandalwood, vanilla and coconut wrap it in a golden, creamy warmth. The result is a sensual, sunny and luxurious fragrance for women who love to be noticed. In our catalogue it is available unboxed – another of the brands in the collection M. Micallef.
Lorenzo Villoresi Vintage Collection Ylang Ylang
The Florentine perfumer Lorenzo Villoresi is known for his masterful work with natural raw materials. His Ylang Ylang places ylang among jasmine, orange blossom, Bourbon geranium and neroli – a classic, aromatherapeutic and very natural reading. Unisex, and suitable for men who are not afraid of flowers.
Sunny ylang: sweet and beachy fragrances
The banana-custard side of ylang-ylang makes it an ideal partner for vanilla and coconut. This is how the "sunny" fragrances are born, reminiscent of summer, the beach and warm skin:
- Mancera Coco Vanille – Sicilian orange, ylang-ylang, mimosa, coconut, gardenia, tuberose and Madagascan vanilla. Creamy, sweet and holiday-like.
- Guerlain Terracotta – coconut, tiaré, ylang-ylang, jasmine and vanilla: the scent of Guerlain's famous bronzing powder turned into a perfume.
- Rabanne Pure XS for Her – peach, popcorn, ylang-ylang, coconut and vanilla. A playful gourmand fragrance in which ylang adds floral sensuality. See the whole line Pure XS.
- Rabanne Million Gold for Her – rose, ylang-ylang, jasmine and vanilla in a glittering, bright composition.
- Mugler Angel Elixir – pink pepper, jasmine, ylang-ylang, orange blossom, sandalwood and Bourbon vanilla. A floral reading of the gourmand icon Angel.
- Carolina Herrera Good Girl Blush – bergamot, bitter almond, peony, ylang-ylang, vanilla and coumarin – powdery, rosy and soft.
If you like this sweet, enveloping direction, also explore the collection vanilla perfumes.
All fragrances at Parfyum.bg are 100% original. We deliver by DPD in 3–6 working days for 10 €, with secure online card payment.
Frequently asked questions
What does ylang-ylang smell like?
Sweet, floral and creamy, with nuances of banana, vanilla custard and clove. It is close to jasmine but fruitier and warmer.
Is ylang-ylang suitable for men?
Yes, especially in unisex fragrances such as Lorenzo Villoresi Ylang Ylang. In small doses ylang-ylang is also present in many men's perfumes, where it softens woody and spicy notes.
Is there ylang-ylang in Chanel N°5?
Yes, ylang-ylang is among the key floral notes in the heart of N°5, together with jasmine and rose, beneath the sparkling aldehydes. The same goes for the lighter N°5 Eau Première.
What does "ylang-ylang Extra" mean?
Extra is the first and finest fraction in the distillation of the oil – the most floral and sweet. It is the preferred grade for luxury perfumes.
Exotic, creamy and sunny – discover ylang-ylang among the original women's perfumes at Parfyum.bg.
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